Live like an Italian this summer by making aperitivo hour - Italy’s happiest hour - a daily ritual.
With the days slowly drawing longer, and the temperature gently rising, England is starting to feel increasingly more Mediterranean. Thankfully, after a brutally long winter, walking along the Thames now feels less like an Arctic battle against the elements, and more like a romantic ‘passeggiata’; Italian for a leisurely stroll. I haven’t quite figured out what precisely it is about clement weather in the UK that defrosts a nationwide obsession with any and everything Italian, but sure enough, as soon as the BBC announces highs of 20 degrees (and above!), aperol and burrata suddenly fly off the shelves, bruschetta and panzanella become staples of dinner party fare, and lack of motivation at work is fashionably re-branded as a preference for the “dolce far niete” - the beauty of doing nothing - lifestyle.
If, like the rest of the country, you too have been seduced by all things Italy, and are looking to have the best big fat Italian summer of your life (without actually having to leave the country), a perfect place to start is by choosing to celebrate ‘aperitivo’ hour every day for the rest of the summer - or perhaps the rest of your life.
Before you jump to conclusions, no, this article isn’t your sign to have an Aperol spritz every day for the rest of summer, because let’s be honest, you were going to do that anyway. Instead, I’m here to open your mind to the beauty of the aperitivo tradition. Think of Aperol as your gateway drug. There’s a whole world of bittersweet Italian aperitifs and crostini pairings awaiting you. Read on to come down the Italian rabbit hole with me.
Aperitivo, literally meaning “to open your stomach”, describes the Italian tradition of enjoying a pre-dinner traditionally bitter and low alcohol drink, accompanied by small snacks. As this translation indicates, the Italians believe that the best way to whet your appetite for an evening of eating is…to eat, of course! As the old adage goes: “appetito vien mangiando” - eating awakens the appetite. Think of it as the culinary equivalent of stretching before a marathon, except unlike the solitary (and traumatic) experience of running, aperitivo is a quintessentially sociable experience that is typically enjoyed between 6 and 9pm as a way to reconnect and unwind post work. What better way is there to recharge after a stressful day of work than to open mouths and seats at your table to “chiacchierare” - chat and socialise with your loved ones? In essence, aperitivo encapsulates a culture that truly understands how and when to let it all go, celebrate and connect, all whilst maintaining elegance.
Whilst a pre-dinner drink and snack doesn’t exactly sound like a revolutionary concept, as with everything Italy has created, aperitivo is truly an art form. This isn’t merely the classy Italian equivalent of having a cuppa and a few digestive biccies after a long day at the office. Nope, aperitivo is its own damn thing. And, as with all good Italian traditions, this one is steeped in a rich history, and comes with its own set of rules. I know this sounds like a lot to take in, but trust me, once you learn how to celebrate aperitivo like a true Italian, you’ll never go back. Are you ready?
Although what you choose to drink, and when you choose to drink it for aperitivo hour is technically up to your own discretion, the impressive history of the tradition dates back to the 18th Century when King Vittorio Emanuele II popularised the enjoyment of Piemontese bitter spiced white wine each evening at dusk. Thus, although you technically could wolf a pack of quavers, wash it down with a Guinness and call it aperitivo, I think you’d probably make a few nonnas roll their eyes in disdain. To avoid causing offence, and celebrate as King Vittorio first established, it’s best to take a more conventional path when it comes to picking your evening aperitivo. Unfortunately, there’s no official rule book when it comes to picking a drink, since like all Italian culinary customs, Italian natives’ aperitivo preference varies wildly depending on where in the country they hail from. On the bright side, however, this means that Italy really is your oyster when it comes to discovering your new favourite drink of the summer. There truly is a whole world beyond the trusty old Aperol spritz. So, without further ado, here’s a few of Italy’s best kept mixology secrets to help you with your aperitivo glow-up.
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Part 1: Aperitivo appropriate drinks
- Negroni
One of the most iconic drinks, and my personal favourite, that is served during aperitivo is the Negroni. Invented in the beautiful Northern city of Florence in 1919, this delightfully bitter cocktail is made with equal parts gin, vermouth and Campari and is finished with a twist of orange peel. ‘Short’ cocktails like this - i.e. without a non-alcoholic mixer, are designed to be sipped slowly. As I said, think of aperitivo as a warm up, not a race. You’ve got to stay classy, remember, this is an Italian tradition after all. You’re not trying to black out and end up crawling to your local chippy before the clock has struck 9pm.
Taste: bitter, smooth, darkly citrus-y.
Vibe: mysterious and sexy.
Location: Florence, Northern Italy.
- Cocchi Spritz
Cocchi (pronounced “cocky”) is one of Italy’s most beloved producers of vermouth: an aromatised fortified wine that is flavoured with various botanicals and herbs - think things like coriander, cinchona bark, juniper… you name it, the Italians have added it. Cocchi Americano, a white quinine-flavoured alcohol first produced in 1891, is the vermouth most often imbibed at aperitivo hour. The Italians typically enjoy this citrusy bitter as part of a “spritz” drink. Now, I know you’ve all heard of an aperol spritz, but did you know that any alcohol can be used to make a spritz? All you have to do is follow this simple formula: 3 parts prosecco (75ml), 2 parts (preferably bitter) alcohol (50ml), and 1 part soda (25ml). This isn’t your excuse to make some abomination like an Apple Sourz Spritz. As a wise man once said, with great power comes great responsibility. I have given you this power. Please use it wisely.
Taste: bitter, honey-sweet, citrus-y.
Vibe: Nuanced, intriguing, refreshing.
Location: Asti province, North-West Italy.
Plus, for those of us who choose not to drink alcohol, or perhaps are just getting involved with ‘sober-curious summer’, there’s a huge range of non-alcoholic botanical bitters on the market that can be paired with tonic and your fave citrus to make a spritz that could rival any of its boozy counterparts. A personal favourite of mine is Pentire’s ‘Coastal Spritz’: a well balanced blend of blood orange, sea rosemary and oakwood. It’s got the warming orange of Aperol, with the refreshing kick of ocean botanicals; a must-drink for all sober aperitivo enthusiasts!
- Vermouth and Tonic (a.k.a the V&T)
If you think that tonic is only good for mixing with gin, I raise you the V&T. I know us Brits are pretty precious about our gin, so making the switch to a V&T might be a tough leap for you to make. But, for those of you who this applies to, let me hit you with this fact: vermouth was initially created as a medicinal tonic, since doctors at the time believed that the botanical herbs and spices used in the production process had important healing properties. So, if you think about it, swapping out your Bombay for Cocchi is literally a health conscious decision. Plus, sipping on a V&T watching the sun go down on a balmy summer evening is a way more attractive “healthy” choice than pounding down a sad old salad, don’t you think?
In all seriousness, V&T’s are truly just a wonderful summertime all-rounder; they’re light and crisp, gently bubbling, sweet enough to be enjoyable, but still bitter enough to be considered a true aperitivo classic. Paired with a generous slice your fave citrus, you can’t go wrong with a lil’ bit of Vermouth. Trust me.
Taste: Depends on which vermouth you go for! A Martini Rosso will be nice and sweet, but a Cocchi Americano will pack a bit more bitterness. Customise to your taste.
Vibe: Unique, refreshing, summery.
Location: Milan, Northern Italy.
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Part 2: The snacks
Now, onto everyone’s favourite bit: the snacks. Italians are required by law to serve food free of charge with alcoholic drinks. How fucking amazing is that. Like, I don’t know about you, but I think we should petition our government to start making laws like this. Who’s with me?
Before you throw caution to the wind, pack up your life and relocate to Italy, free aperitivo snacks really are just that: snacks. You’re not getting a free three course meal when you splash 5 euro on a spritz. Sorry to burst your bubble. Nevertheless, some of the most delicious bites I’ve munched on in Italy have been a lil’ freebie served at aperitivo hour. Let’s get into it.
First of all, abandon any preconceived notions that you may harbour about bar food; this isn’t your local pub’s pork scratchings and cheese and onion crisps. Quite the opposite in fact, since in Italy there’s only two types of snacks deemed appropriate for aperitivo pairing: crostini and taglieri.
- Crostini
Crostini are small, circular slices of fine-textured bread (think: Italian baguette), that are lightly toasted and finished with a variety of delectable toppings. From sweet/ savoury combinations of fig, honey and goat’s cheese, to saltier versions loaded with thin slices of parma ham and generous lashings of genovese pesto, no two crostinis are the same. But, one thing I can promise is that they’re always fucking delicious.
- Taglieri
Taglieri, on the other hand, are wooden boards that are piled high with a mouth-watering selection of cold cuts, Italian cheeses, whatever fresh fruit and vegetables are in season, and crusty bread or grissini - breadsticks. I know that TikTok has made us all obsessed with charcuterie boards, so you probably think that you’ve already mastered the art of salami-flowers and appropriate cheese pairings. And, hey, maybe you have, who am I to say? But, if you haven’t yet tried an authentic taglieri, I implore you to book a flight to Italy you’ve been dreaming about all year… Right. Fucking. Now. This is your sign. Go eat taglieri and wash it down with a crisp Campari spritz. It’s life changing. That’s all I’m going to say.
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To me, the true beauty of aperitivo is in appreciating that you are upholding a centuries old tradition. No matter what you’re drinking, what you’re nibbling on, where you are and who you’re with, it’s the daily ritual of taking a moment, prioritising your pleasure, and intentionally taking time to reconnect with those around you that’s important. So, romanticise your life a little bit with me this summer. Take a moment to enjoy ‘la dolce vita’ - the sweet life - even if you don’t leave the country, or even your house, at all.
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